Creams and lotions that cleanse, tone or moisturize the skin are all prepared according to a similar formula. Most of the product consists of a base to which active ingredients, fragrance and preservatives are added. The base is a fairly standard preparation, while active agents and scents are often varied according to the desired intention of the product.

The base, which may be formulated from either natural or synthetic ingredients, typically includes oil, cleansing agents, thickeners and an emulsifier in varying proportions. Cleansers contain less oil, while moisturizers contain more. Thickeners add body to the product, so it can be more easily applied, with creams contains more thickening agent and lotions containing less. An emulsifier is used to chemically join the oil and water-based ingredients.

Natural base ingredients usually consist of nut oils like olive, almond, coconut or flaxseed oil, beeswax, plant-based waxes and cocoa butter, while synthetic ingredients often include petrochemical derivatives. Many different thickeners and emulsifiers are used, which may be either natural or synthetic.

Active ingredients are then added to the base to bring about specific desired benefits. These include natural plant extracts as well as other agents such as vitamins, acids and other compounds. Because the body simply eliminates any excess material it cannot use, there is no benefit to incorporating very high proportions of active ingredients and this component of the overall product is usually small.

Fragrance may also be either natural or synthetic. Natural scents typically consist of essential oils such as lavender, jasmine, cinnamon, peppermint, lemon and others. Synthetic fragrances include more than 3,000 different ingredients, most of which are derived from petroleum. They include phthalates, or phthalate esters, which are a top hazard in fragrance mixtures and have been linked with allergies in children, birth defects, toxicity and damage to adult reproductive, adrenal, liver, and kidney organs. Although some manufacturers have removed these chemicals from their products, a recent study conducted by the Environmental Working Group found phthalates in nearly three-quarters of 72 name-brand products tested.

Preservatives are used to maintain the integrity of active ingredients and extend a product’s shelf life. They are particularly important for natural products, which can quickly become rancid without protection.

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